Saturday, 15 July 2017

A packet full of lies

India's middle class are growing around the middle. People are starting to take action, and a market for diet and healthy foods has opened up. Unfortunately this market is partly filled with lies and misinformation.

The packet which offends me the most is 'Haldirams diet chiwda". For the benefit of non-Indians, Haldirams is one of India's biggest snacks and confectionary brands, and chiwda is a kind of crispy snack. The brand is generally well regarded for quality, but the snack in question is anything but a diet food. In fact, before concerns about gluten, I used this snack to gain weight. The justification for labelling this particular pack as diet is a fractional reduction in calories and fat compared to the non-diet version, but this doesn't match the claims.

From the front of the packet it's bold:
"Diet"
"Snac Lite!"
"Sensible snacking"
"Mild taste" (ok I'll agree with this one)

The imagery follows up the words; the packet is mostly green (the colour of healthy) with thin vertical stripes... even the packet needs a slimming effect. The detail is not subtle, an image of a tape measure wrapped around the pack. The tape measure continues on the back of the pack, with little but a repetition of the same claim "healthy namkeen" (snack). Apparently this is part of a series of healthy snacks.

The problems begin at the nutrition label... it's not actually healthy. It has 516 calories per 100g (774 calories per bag) of which most come from white rice and palm oil. This is about as far as you can get from healthy, bar the non diet version of the same snack, or foods flavoured with lead, arsenic, maybe a little mercury? It gets worse, it's not just the high calorie density from nutritionally poor foods, it's the "mild taste". If you're a bit greedy like me you can easily finish an entire pack in one sitting, that's a meals worth of calories (1/3 of daily intake). This combination makes it, to my mind, one of the most dangerously misleading foods available.

There are many other high calorie density foods available, what catches my attention here is also the low quality of the food. Cashew nuts at 550 calories per 100g are high, but pro rata match your RDA of protein, iron, magnesium, and nearly vitamin B6 and potassium. This product doesn't contain cashews. It's white rice, which as I have covered before, doesn't have much to offer beyond starch. A big chunk of the energy comes from fat, 28% by weight. The fat is palm oil, which is one of the least healthy and most environmentally destructive oils available. The rainforests of Indonesia will be destroyed and replaced by a barren monoculture thanks to this oil. Of the remaining ingredients only the 15% gram flour (chickpea) offers some salvation. Chickpea has a reasonable protein content for a starchy food, and is digested slightly more slowly. The remaining macro ingredients are starch and sugar, as if this product needed added sugar on top of it's ills.

The most frustrating part, this labelling actually works. I met one person keen to stay in shape that ate this food believing that it was a healthy alternative snack. The lies work.

Wednesday, 5 July 2017

Tell me sweet little lies

This time around I am rarely concerned with the honesty of the tourist industry, but lies which aim to mislead locals have caught my attention. I will skip over the spread of homeopathic medicine, or the newspaper adverts for BrainoX, for exam performance, or the pyramid schemes... their time will come. My first concern is food.

Food is an issue in India, and many people are malnourished, stunted by diets reliant on cheap white rice. Anyone who can afford it seems to have the opposite problem and gains weight. There are various pieces of local wisdom on the cause, quite often cooking oil is blamed for the rise in obesity. If instead you take a 'post low fat' look at the Indian diet, a big chunk of the calories come from rice or wheat. Sugar, the new food evil, is also consumed in large quantities. Given these influences it would be helpful if the debate was informed by reliable sources.

The bag of milled rice flakes known as poha catch my attention. The bold claims are as follows:

"Low calori" - the front of the pack makes this claim, but the nutrition label shows the standard figure for dry white rice. It's true white rice has significantly fewer calories than vegetable oil for example, but it's not exceptionally low. At 365kcal/ 100g it's between white bread and sugar... I would consider this a lie.

"Healthy and fresh" - Two separate claims. I would argue that as a long-life dried food poha is in fact the very opposite of fresh. It's probably a good candidate for stocking up a survival shelter. When a nutritionist mentions eating more fresh food I doubt this is what they have in mind. Here I'm being facetious, I know India has repurposed the word fresh to mean anything that isn't fried in vegetable oil. As vegetable oil is the popular cause of all ills this food must therefore be healthy. I'm leaning towards a lie.

For your healthy life - meaningless, and deceptive. If you eat this you will be healthy, which is a lie. Note how guarded the UK brands are when they state their processed foods "can be part of a balanced diet".

High minerals & dietary fiber - I will define an easy threshold for high in X to be "if you ate your daily calories entirely of this food, you would meet your RDA in nutrient X". This is of course a flat lie, white rice is neither high in minerals or high in dietary fiber. If you ate 2000 calories of rice you would receive only:
27% of your dietary fiber
22% of your iron
11% of the calcium RDA
33% of magnesium
16% of potassium

Export quality - but is it? And what does this mean, perhaps the absence of twigs and small stones? I'll call this one smoke.

This pack could just be a bad apple, another brand has none of the misleading statements. In fact it's one of the quaint things I love about India, the little nostalgic touches.
"Victory Poha", in a dark military green pack. Established 1947.