Chitlang trek

In searching for the nearest lake to Kathmandu to swim I discovered both a beautiful lake and a pleasant trek. If you ever end up sat in Kathmandu, consider Thankot-Chitlang-Kulekhani. It meets my standards of perfection, being easy enough to walk without preparation and free of other tourists (at least at the start of the rains). Also it gets you out of Kathmandu...

There is a bus to Thankot from the city bus stand, and it takes about 30 minutes, depending on the normal waiting for passengers routine. Once you arrive you want to head south, it's a small road up the hill, any local will point you in the right direction if you ask for Chitlang. By chance I met a local walking home to the village at the top of the ridge (just over half way to Chitlang).

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It takes about 4 hours (locals far less) to walk from Thankot to Chitlang. There are two routes, the road and the path, which cross frequently on the way up the hill. The path is supposedly shorter, and winds through the forest, but has disadvantages. Some sections are steep and slippery in the permanent cloud (which can apparently last for 3 months) and the leech level is quite high. The alternative is the road, it's not so bad. The road is surrounded by much of the same landscape and you will be passed by only a handful of vehicles during your trek.

Some good mountain views on the way up the hill, back over the Kathmandu valley. You can see snow covered mountains between the layers of cloud.

On the other side of the ridge you can see the town, its quite spread out with buildings all over the valley. You can see what they are trying to attract tourists with. Most of the local architecture still looks like more traditional Nepal.

Chitlang has heard of tourists and the accommodation in homestays is typically organised into fixed packages of Rs1000 - Rs1500 including food. As this is a little pricey just negotiate, asking about the room and each meal in turn. Nepalis are too reasonable to overcharge you when you break it down and you might agree around Rs750 total off season. To reach Kulekhani lake it's another 3 hours plus (locals will tell you less) down the valley, you can follow the road. It's green and pleasant here... homely after India. If it's before the rainy season you might spot some aiselu for a snack on the way. (Yellow raspberries which grow a lot like blackberries in England).

The first village you arrive at on the lake edge is actually 'Marko'. There is accommodation here as with every small town along the lake edge. If you head along the lake it's another few hours to reach KuleKhani village itself, as the road winds along the many valleys at the lake edge. You might spot some local industry, such as this water-powered corn (American usage) mill.

I can't think of a better route back than to retrace the same path. There probably is one, if you fancy exploring.

Note for swimmers: if you're trying to do the length of the lake heading for the hut at the center of the fish farms allows you to cross the booms of nets.