So some 60 people had the sense to complain about police harassment in Gokarna.
Friday, 21 February 2014
Thursday, 20 February 2014
The elephant in the room
The coast guard boat waves us back to land, but mistaking this for the usual small dictator behaviour we tread water watching the scene for a little longer. A tourist boat runs out to join them and they spend many minutes discussing something. The tourist boat eventually returns, but it is trailing a rope into the water. As it gets closer a bulge in the surface is visible at the end of the rope, some red clothing, a body. The bulge moves through the water, now just behind the swimming tourists, and up to the shore where the boat has landed. It remains here lying in the surf, dressed for a few evenings before in shorts and t-shirt, skin white and purple. There is a small crowd of police officers and concerned persons, but with time this group begins to disperse and make phone calls. The body is left alone, it lies in the surf, moored by a rope tied to an electricity post at the top of the beach. The Indian tourists have gone. The western tourists slowly return to the water, at first at the far end of the beach, and then closer.
Tuesday, 18 February 2014
The English are coming
"Has anyone noticed Jennings hasn't done the jump yet". The five lads who have made camp on the top of the jumping rock, above the reservoir at Hampi, seem excited. They briefly argue over who is smoking all of the spliff, but examine themselves and conclude that such an argument fits a younger age. It's decided that each should smoke their own. The lack of ketamine is mentioned, and... with little shock... they have brought music. I think I will let them off, fade out to the Rolling Stones - under my thumb.
The pressure is off
It's not peak season any more and a number of Indian tourists are staying on the beach. Doubt and debate can slowly subside, the awkward rules have been relaxed. The lodges have done their work, and you will see mostly young Indian couples who have come not to be judged for those most unnatural of relations, heterosexual contact.
Friday, 14 February 2014
What makes South India different
I'm in Karnataka, one of the southern states, and in rural areas it seems that women don't exactly have many opportunities. But it's about the laughter and smiles as we arrange the shared rickshaw so I am not technically next to a local girl, even separated by a person sized gap.
When you're unwanted
I know the feeling of being unwelcome. It's the most crushing thing in the world, and this combined with an idle search has led me to consider some Indian reactions to the apparent 'No Indians' policy of Gokarna beach. At the time not much reaction is visible, the lodges make excuses and it's only afterwards that the policy is clear; "No room for Indians eh". Tripadvisor, after some internal doubt over whether this is really one word, appears to be a great source for frustrated reactions. The largest (and most welcoming to Indians) lodge on the beach has a presence on this website, simply browse the 'terrible' reviews. This lodge was the base of the Indian group which made such wonderful small talk with the Swiss ladies, as described in table seats seven. Some of the reviews pick out the apparently discriminatory policy:
Before diving into these complaints its worth noting that the majority of the bad reviews, even among Indian tourists, are for the offensively lazy staff and poor cleanliness. As a traveller in India you generally become accustomed to quite low standards, lower than middle class Indian families would accept at least. New travellers, especially Americans, are shocked by what they find. Myself I have become tolerant of holes in rooms, dirty sheets, ants, cockroaches, snakes, rats and so on. Even Europeans are a bit shocked by this place though, which has clearly relied on it's positioning as the first hotel on the beach. As far as food goes, many high quality restaurants in South India are pure vegetarian, while restaurants serving foreigners cater to all tastes where possible. This means they include meat dishes (a kitchen which handles meat is considered dirty by some Indians), and fall foul of the saying trying to be a jack of all culinary trades. One noteworthy reviewer from the United States complained, mid list, about the cow feces on the beach. If ever when there was a welcome to India moment, it's the presence of cows.
So for tackling the experiences of the customers who picked up on the bias, what did they find. For one a complaint that they were refused a table. The excuse was that 'the Russians are coming', because the lodges can never say you are not welcome directly. The man suggests that this is because the foreigners pay a good tip and that the bias is as a result of foreigners money, and that the policy is racist. This is an interesting reaction, that because he was willing to tip he should be welcome (entitled is a loaded word). In this case he could simply be arguing that because he was as equally willing to pay he should be equally welcome. But it is in danger of supporting the view that money gives you the right to be somewhere, not that this is specifically Indian, think George Orwell on poverty in 'Keep the Aspidistra Flying'. There are doubts, as I and many other international travellers have never tipped on Gokarna beach. But the reviewer might be correct about the atmosphere at the restaurant. An Australian reviewer has also stated that customers are just seen with dollar signs above their heads, and that they felt the atmosphere unpleasant. In the end part of the story is missing, 'travelled with friends' doesn't mention the gender of the friends, but lets assume they were men.
Next a complaint which gets straight to the point, how would people feel if treated like this in their own country. Well, instead I would suggest that if I went to a restaurant that catered almost exclusively for Chinese diaspora and behaved insensibly of their cultural rules I might not be so welcome, even if nothing was said. In this case the pressure is social, and unspoken. But this complainant is smart, he uses words outside my normal vocabulary. He hits the nail on the head, why don't they just write a sign which says 'no seats for Indians' to save the time. Because you can't say it, openly. When questioned the restaurant staff 'shamelessly' state that the tables are reserved for foreigners.
Three disappointed Indian reviewers notable for their expectation of higher standards. Clearly if you've scrambled to raise yourself in the money hierarchy you don't want to be thrown back into the dirt for the sense of adventure. I'm rather used to dirt, torn mosquito nets, and unreliable power; but it was enough to drive one of these groups away entirely. Indian tourists generally want to eat North Indian food, where as the restaurants on Om Beach have only a token selection of this range, often outnumbered by Israeli dishes. I have heard tell from an Indian friend that on bus trips around Europe Indian tourists will be followed by a minivan carrying an Indian chef and supplies, now that is adventurous. Another review complaining about the cleanliness of the rooms, but including the key line about refusal of service. I have to admit it looks pretty poor to accept people renting cottages and then refuse them in your restaurant.
But these are only the most negative reviews, many Indian tourists rate the resort more highly. At least 3 times as many Indian tourists rate the resort at Average, generally restrained by the poor standards of cleanliness and high prices. There are some factors to put this number in perspective, the positive reviewers have arrived off season when the number of foreign tourists is very low, and they are paying higher rates. In some cases 5 times what foreigners pay mid-season further down the beach. This Hotel is known for charging higher rates, but is also justified using the duration of stay rule, see Rishikesh pricing last year. One reviewer noted that foreigners were charged lower prices on account of staying at least 1 week. Indian tourists often spend one or two nights at a Hotel, and almost always including a Sunday.
So Indian reviewers had different experiences. But at least one of the positive (if average can be considered so) reviews was for a visit in January, peak season for the beach. Those rejected have perceived this attack as racist, but is it a quick assessment of the make up of the group and their potential behaviour. Isn't every man a potential pest. I've met some quite assertive Swedish women... but not close. If I am rejected, what in my behaviour makes me unwelcome. Am I so certain I deviate from the stereotype which has led to this rule. Am I going to be pressuring Swiss girls to drink after playing Hitlers apologist.
"Disaster if you are Indian"
"Good for few bad for some, If you are an Indian you are not Welcome!!!"
"so arrogant they denied to serve us""Good for few bad for some, If you are an Indian you are not Welcome!!!"
Before diving into these complaints its worth noting that the majority of the bad reviews, even among Indian tourists, are for the offensively lazy staff and poor cleanliness. As a traveller in India you generally become accustomed to quite low standards, lower than middle class Indian families would accept at least. New travellers, especially Americans, are shocked by what they find. Myself I have become tolerant of holes in rooms, dirty sheets, ants, cockroaches, snakes, rats and so on. Even Europeans are a bit shocked by this place though, which has clearly relied on it's positioning as the first hotel on the beach. As far as food goes, many high quality restaurants in South India are pure vegetarian, while restaurants serving foreigners cater to all tastes where possible. This means they include meat dishes (a kitchen which handles meat is considered dirty by some Indians), and fall foul of the saying trying to be a jack of all culinary trades. One noteworthy reviewer from the United States complained, mid list, about the cow feces on the beach. If ever when there was a welcome to India moment, it's the presence of cows.
So for tackling the experiences of the customers who picked up on the bias, what did they find. For one a complaint that they were refused a table. The excuse was that 'the Russians are coming', because the lodges can never say you are not welcome directly. The man suggests that this is because the foreigners pay a good tip and that the bias is as a result of foreigners money, and that the policy is racist. This is an interesting reaction, that because he was willing to tip he should be welcome (entitled is a loaded word). In this case he could simply be arguing that because he was as equally willing to pay he should be equally welcome. But it is in danger of supporting the view that money gives you the right to be somewhere, not that this is specifically Indian, think George Orwell on poverty in 'Keep the Aspidistra Flying'. There are doubts, as I and many other international travellers have never tipped on Gokarna beach. But the reviewer might be correct about the atmosphere at the restaurant. An Australian reviewer has also stated that customers are just seen with dollar signs above their heads, and that they felt the atmosphere unpleasant. In the end part of the story is missing, 'travelled with friends' doesn't mention the gender of the friends, but lets assume they were men.
Next a complaint which gets straight to the point, how would people feel if treated like this in their own country. Well, instead I would suggest that if I went to a restaurant that catered almost exclusively for Chinese diaspora and behaved insensibly of their cultural rules I might not be so welcome, even if nothing was said. In this case the pressure is social, and unspoken. But this complainant is smart, he uses words outside my normal vocabulary. He hits the nail on the head, why don't they just write a sign which says 'no seats for Indians' to save the time. Because you can't say it, openly. When questioned the restaurant staff 'shamelessly' state that the tables are reserved for foreigners.
Three disappointed Indian reviewers notable for their expectation of higher standards. Clearly if you've scrambled to raise yourself in the money hierarchy you don't want to be thrown back into the dirt for the sense of adventure. I'm rather used to dirt, torn mosquito nets, and unreliable power; but it was enough to drive one of these groups away entirely. Indian tourists generally want to eat North Indian food, where as the restaurants on Om Beach have only a token selection of this range, often outnumbered by Israeli dishes. I have heard tell from an Indian friend that on bus trips around Europe Indian tourists will be followed by a minivan carrying an Indian chef and supplies, now that is adventurous. Another review complaining about the cleanliness of the rooms, but including the key line about refusal of service. I have to admit it looks pretty poor to accept people renting cottages and then refuse them in your restaurant.
The booking issue is complex. An Indian group complained that their booking, made a week before, did not exist on arrival. Hotel staff said they had no contact with the group, but this isn't the full story. About the same time a European tourist had the same experience, as there is one of each review I wouldn't so far suggest denying bookings on arrival constitutes a policy. On a similar subject a reviewer has proved his fine intellect with this accusation of inconsistency. It parallels one of my favourite complaints, found on an online forum to Indian Railways, shortened to the following "The current reservation counter would not sell me an advance reservation".
"i had been calling them for the past one month that i need an advance reservation specially during the Independence Day Week holiday. they asked me to book 1 week in advance and before that they were not willing to take the reservation. just one week before when i called they informed that all rooms have been booked... This hotel's management does not know how to keep its words."
But these are only the most negative reviews, many Indian tourists rate the resort more highly. At least 3 times as many Indian tourists rate the resort at Average, generally restrained by the poor standards of cleanliness and high prices. There are some factors to put this number in perspective, the positive reviewers have arrived off season when the number of foreign tourists is very low, and they are paying higher rates. In some cases 5 times what foreigners pay mid-season further down the beach. This Hotel is known for charging higher rates, but is also justified using the duration of stay rule, see Rishikesh pricing last year. One reviewer noted that foreigners were charged lower prices on account of staying at least 1 week. Indian tourists often spend one or two nights at a Hotel, and almost always including a Sunday.
So Indian reviewers had different experiences. But at least one of the positive (if average can be considered so) reviews was for a visit in January, peak season for the beach. Those rejected have perceived this attack as racist, but is it a quick assessment of the make up of the group and their potential behaviour. Isn't every man a potential pest. I've met some quite assertive Swedish women... but not close. If I am rejected, what in my behaviour makes me unwelcome. Am I so certain I deviate from the stereotype which has led to this rule. Am I going to be pressuring Swiss girls to drink after playing Hitlers apologist.
Thursday, 13 February 2014
Embracing the local culture
Travelling hippies can often be found embracing the local culture of somewhere. This weeks activity seems to be constructing Indian American Indian dream catchers, before a didgeridoo session around the fire. Chillum (an Indian pipe for smoking marijuana) is unsurprisingly popular.
Monday, 10 February 2014
Fire Hazards
Some behaviours at the night time beach fires (best between 11pm and 3am) are more welcome than others. It's all wonderful and hippy and free, so instead people vote with their bums or silent contempt. On the whole it's a nice atmosphere and a laid back way to spend the night. All the lodges have closed and this is the public social scene.
Don't join a fire and then throw an extra log you didn't buy onto the fire. Ask permission, it's polite.
Joining a fire and then making conversation in a language the hosts don't understand. The odd comment is OK, too much private conversation is a little bit rude. Making conversation in this other language across the middle of the fire is right out.
Arriving at the fire and talking too much, or not talking enough. In extremes, not talking can be at best moody, and talking too much about trivia can be taxing. How many times must a man recount the country he is from, and the duration of his stay.
You could ask permission to join the fire, but is it necessary. It seems polite, but everyone is too polite to say no. You're just obliging them to welcome you. It's clear you should be welcomed with open arms, but then who says groups of men aren't regarded with some suspicion. There is an element of sexual competition, and the atmosphere changes when single women are present. It was said in honesty by a Spanish man after the last women had left. "So, it's just guys now, I know we were all thinking it". Curiously, women who are present as part of a couple have the most stabilising effect. Their presence calms, but does not lead to that type of primitive pursuit typified by conversations spatially centered around a women.
The man whore. Each night (and most of the day) unashamedly pursuing a different woman. The close one-on-one conversations. One night eating the face of a Welsh girl, the next night engaging the young Australian ladies. The next daylight back to flirting on the beach. He isn't young enough for me to dismiss this behaviour with a smile and chuckle about guys in their early 20s. Still, if someone sucked out my entire sense of shame I might not be far off myself so I can't judge too harshly.
Sometimes people want electronic music, sometimes they don't. I would be tempted to say this is not the place to have Goa parties, but it's only a narrow majority who favour quiet conversation and real instruments (a drum for these purposes does not count as a real instrument and belongs with the electronic music). Certainly the Austrian man with the twirly fire sticks liked his music. But this preference halved the size of the fire, because what do you do, sit around being alternative without being able to converse. No you do cool things which involve twirling shiny things around and taking drugs (drugs other than cannabis).
Local people at the fire, ignoring the overly drunk men who are loud and intrusive, usually results in silence. Conversations are stilted and basic, because in the end there is little common ground with people who have not left their home country. The people who join the fires are not the most educated, the richer and mixed groups would be more likely to build their own fires and keep to themselves (but converse in English, the language of the higher classes in Bangalore). The difference softens when Indian men arrive who have lived in Europe or the USA. They are a few years closer to the social groups who frequent the fires and can engage better.
Hitting the cows. Don't hit the cows, they just want to eat your candles. Wave the stick around and they understand. On the other hand, don't get too friendly, cows love to wander in and soil the ground around you.
Don't join a fire and then throw an extra log you didn't buy onto the fire. Ask permission, it's polite.
Joining a fire and then making conversation in a language the hosts don't understand. The odd comment is OK, too much private conversation is a little bit rude. Making conversation in this other language across the middle of the fire is right out.
Arriving at the fire and talking too much, or not talking enough. In extremes, not talking can be at best moody, and talking too much about trivia can be taxing. How many times must a man recount the country he is from, and the duration of his stay.
You could ask permission to join the fire, but is it necessary. It seems polite, but everyone is too polite to say no. You're just obliging them to welcome you. It's clear you should be welcomed with open arms, but then who says groups of men aren't regarded with some suspicion. There is an element of sexual competition, and the atmosphere changes when single women are present. It was said in honesty by a Spanish man after the last women had left. "So, it's just guys now, I know we were all thinking it". Curiously, women who are present as part of a couple have the most stabilising effect. Their presence calms, but does not lead to that type of primitive pursuit typified by conversations spatially centered around a women.
The man whore. Each night (and most of the day) unashamedly pursuing a different woman. The close one-on-one conversations. One night eating the face of a Welsh girl, the next night engaging the young Australian ladies. The next daylight back to flirting on the beach. He isn't young enough for me to dismiss this behaviour with a smile and chuckle about guys in their early 20s. Still, if someone sucked out my entire sense of shame I might not be far off myself so I can't judge too harshly.
Sometimes people want electronic music, sometimes they don't. I would be tempted to say this is not the place to have Goa parties, but it's only a narrow majority who favour quiet conversation and real instruments (a drum for these purposes does not count as a real instrument and belongs with the electronic music). Certainly the Austrian man with the twirly fire sticks liked his music. But this preference halved the size of the fire, because what do you do, sit around being alternative without being able to converse. No you do cool things which involve twirling shiny things around and taking drugs (drugs other than cannabis).
Local people at the fire, ignoring the overly drunk men who are loud and intrusive, usually results in silence. Conversations are stilted and basic, because in the end there is little common ground with people who have not left their home country. The people who join the fires are not the most educated, the richer and mixed groups would be more likely to build their own fires and keep to themselves (but converse in English, the language of the higher classes in Bangalore). The difference softens when Indian men arrive who have lived in Europe or the USA. They are a few years closer to the social groups who frequent the fires and can engage better.
Hitting the cows. Don't hit the cows, they just want to eat your candles. Wave the stick around and they understand. On the other hand, don't get too friendly, cows love to wander in and soil the ground around you.
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