The smog starts about 40km out of the city... I haven't seen the sun as more than a hazy patch of bright sky since. The sky is grey, on the bus people start to cough a little...
The first graffiti on the way into the city reads "I hate my life" on a ringroad overpass.
The famed scams are so far limited in effect, and the hotel tout quoted a reasonable rate after just 30 seconds... (probably over the odds for Delhi, but I just can't argue over a difference of about 1.5 GBP). The metered auto thought better of taking a long route, the chai wallah gave Rs10 a shot, and then dropped to Rs8. The cafe tried to overcharge by Rs10, but not very hard.
I fear something of the fatalistic Indian character. This is best expressed by I forget which of the Gurus "You cannot change what will happen, so the best course is to be silent"
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