Tuesday, 11 June 2013

So you have chosen the path of pain

Getting onto the general compartment of a packed overnight train is a new experience. When the train arrives the chaos begins, even as the first unreserved coaches thunder past people open the doors and leap into the moving train. Sometimes there is a cluster of people hanging from the door which I'm shocked doesn't wipe anyone out on the platform. When the train slows the real chaos begins. People are pushing like driven animals, children are caught in the crush to get into the train but nobody thinks anything of it. It's almost violent, and gets heated quickly. In amongst the chaos people are illegally loading bags which look like cargo into the packed unreserved compartments. Anyone is looking to make what they can in India... by chance and by ending up boarding the train towards the back of the surge I make the only spot I'd have been happy with, between the two doors of the train. I manage to pack my bags under the sink behind me, and hold on to my spot. Thankfully people seem willing to push past into the carriage and nobody challenges me. The humidity is 85% and I keep the supply of water in my mind in case the temperatures get too high.
Some people quickly make their way into each of the toilets, and lock the door from the inside. They have secured their spot, at the cost of all the other passengers. They don't stop at this selfish disregard, they rip the shutters off the walls to cover the toilets in the floor. I hear a thud first from one compartment and then the other. This is clearly an every man for himself kind of journey.
The train is packed, but thankfully just at the level where our bodies are not directly touching. There isn't enough space for everyone to sit on the floor, but if people take it in turns then they can each get some rest sitting down sleeping. To start off with at least its quite cordial. But damn my long legs, when I sit, I don't quite fit and it's almost as stressful as standing. I opt to stand, and lean my head into the wall. The hardest part of the night is around 4am to 6am. We each find ourselves falling asleep and coming to with a slap against the walls. A small laugh goes round, we all know it.
During the last stretch of the day the train is even fuller, but the end is in sight. After 15 hours on the train and another full day, some 40 hours awake, I have very very fat feet.


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